The Fourteen, Eight-Thousand Metre Peaks


The 14 8000’ers, a group of 14 giant mountains with their summits above 8000m, all located in the Himalayan & Karakoram mountain ranges within Asia, all requiring climbers to enter the death zone.

Summiting all 14 8000m peaks is considered one of, if not the biggest achievements and challenges for any high altitude mountaineer. For good reason,  summiting all 14 requires a high level of skill, patience, fitness, endurance, strength, mental strength, desire, bravery, resilience, determination and funds. Summiting any mountain above 8000m is a huge achievement. The extremely cold conditions, the 40+ day expeditions and high altitude makes summiting any 8000m a real challenge, so summiting all 14 is on an another level. The risk of altitude related illnesses such as cerebral oedema and pulmonary oedema is significantly increased along with the risk of hypothermia, frostbite and pneumonia. But despite this hundreds if not thousands of motivated climbers dream of climbing and summiting all 14 and many fail and/or die.

So with that being said what mountains make up the 14 8000’ers? How high are they exactly? Where are they exactly? How much does it cost to climb them? When do climbers climb them? How do climbers die on them? Read on because these questions are answered, along with other interesting facts about these remarkable mountains.


MOUNT EVEREST

Also known as Chomolungma “Goddess Mother of the World” or Sagarmatha “Peak of Heaven”

Height: 8,848m

Location: Border of Nepal & China

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: US $35,000 – US $100,000+, average US $55,000

Most common causes of death:

  • High altitude pulmonary oedema
  • High altitude cerebral oedema
  • Extreme fatigue
  • Falls
  • Avalanche
  • Cardiac arrest
  • Exposure (prolonged periods of extreme conditions leading to hypothermia, frostbite, etc)

Death per summit average: As of 2018 there have been  9,159 successful summits & 295 deaths. Giving you an average of  approx. 1 person dying every 31 successful summits

Peak Climbing Season: April – June

First Accent: 29th of May 1953, Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay

First Winter Accent: 17th of February 1980, Krzysztof Wielicki & Leszek Cichy

First Accent without oxygen: 8th of May 1978, Reinhold Messner

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • South Cole Route
  • Northeast Ridge Route

Average Duration of expedition: 60 days


K2

Also known as Mount Godwin-Austen or Chhogori

Height: 8,611m

Location: Border of China & Pakistan

Mountain Range: Karakoram

Cost to climb: US $15,000 – US $50,000+, average US $25,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Fall
  • Lost 
  • Killed in storm
  • Avalanche
  • Altitude Sickness

Death per summit average: As of 2018 there have been 367 successful summits & 86 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 4 successful summits

Climbing Season: June – August

First Accent: 31st of July 1954, Achille Compagnoni & Lino Lacedelli

First Winter Accent: Nil

First Accent without oxygen: September 6th 1978, Louis Reichardt

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Abruzzi Spur

Average Duration of expedition: 55 days


KANGCHENJUNGA

Also known as the Five Treasures of Snow

Height: 8,586m

Location: Between Nepal & India

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $20,000 – US $50,000+, due to the difficulties of the trek into base camp and the remoteness of the mountain not much companies offer expedition services to Kanchenjunga making it hard to figure out costs

Most common causes of death:

  • Fall
  • Avalanche
  • High Altitude Cerebral Oedema
  • Altitude Sickness
  • Hypothermia

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 283 successful summits & 40 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 7 successful summits

Climbing Season: April – May

First Accent: 25th of May 1955, George Band & Joe Brown 

First Winter Accent: 11th of January 1986, Krzysztof Wielicki & Jerzy Kukuczka

First Accent without oxygen:  16th of May 1979, Doug Scott, Peter Boardman & Joe Tasker

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Southwest Face
  • Northwest Face
  • Northeast Face

Average Duration of expedition: 55 days


LHOTSE

Also known as South Peak

Height: 8,516m

Location: Border of Nepal & China

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $20,000-US $50,000+, average US $30,000

Most common causes of death: 

  • Altitude Sickness
  • Fall
  • Avalanche

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 461 successful summits & 13 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 35 successful summits

Climbing Season: April – June

First Accent: 18th of May 1956, Fritz Luchsinger & Ernst Reiss

First Winter Accent: 31st of December 1988, Krzysztof Wiellicki

First Accent without oxygen: October 4th 1979, Jerzy Kukuczka

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Lhotse Face Route

Average Duration of expedition: 55 days


MAKALU

Height: 8,463m

Location: Border of Nepal & China

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $15,000 – US $25,000+ US, average US $20,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Altitude sickness
  • Fall
  • Avalanche
  • High altitude cerebral oedema
  • High altitude pulmonary oedema

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 361 successful summits & 31 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 12 successful summits

Climbing Season: April – May

First Accent: 15th of May 1955, Jean Couzy & Lionel Terray

First Winter Accent: 9th of February 2009, Simone Moro & Denis Urubko

First Accent without oxygen: 1975, Stane Belak

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Southeast Ridge

Average Duration of expedition: 60 days


CHO OYU

Also known as the Turquoise Goddess

Height: 8,188m

Location: Border of Nepal & China

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $20,000-US $40,000+, average US $30,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Avalanche
  • Altitude Sickness
  • Fall
  • Illness
  • Crevasse

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 3138 successful summits & 44 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 71 successful summits

Climbing Season: September – October

First Accent: 19th of October 1954, Joseph Joechler, Pasang Dawa Lama & Herbert Tichy

First Winter Accent: 12th of February 1985, Marciej Berbeka & Maciej Pawlikowski

First Accent without oxygen: 19th of October 1954, Joseph Joechler, Pasang Dawa Lama & Herbert Tichy

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Northwest Ridge Route

Average Duration of expedition: 45 days


DHAULAGIRI I

Height: 8,167m

Location: Nepal

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $15,000-US $30,000+ US, average US $25,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Avalanche
  • Fall
  • Altitude Sickness
  • Cerebral Oedema
  • Cold & Exhaustion

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 448 successful summits & 69 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 6 successful summits

Climbing Season: April – May

First Accent: 13th of May 1960, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Nawang Dorje, Nima Dorje, Ernst Forrer & Albin Schelbert

First Winter Accent: 21st of January 1985, Andrzej Czok & Jerzy Kukuczka

First Accent without oxygen: 13th of May 1960, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Nawang Dorje, Nima Dorje, Ernst Forrer & Albin Schelbert

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Northeast ridge route

Average Duration of expedition: 50 days


MANASLU

Also known as the Kutang or Mountain of the spirit

Height: 8,163m

Location: Nepal

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $10,000-US $30,000+ US, average US $18,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Fall
  • Avalanche
  • Altitude Sickness
  • Hypothermia

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 661 successful summits & 65 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 10 successful summits

Climbing Season: September – August

First Accent: 9th of May 1956, Toshio Imanishi & Gyalzen Norbu

First Winter Accent: 12th of January 1984, Maciej Berbeka & Ryszard Gajewski

First Accent without oxygen: April 25th 1972, Reinhold Messner

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Northeast Ridge Route

Average Duration of expedition: 45


NANGA PARBAT

Also known as Diamer, Naked Mountain or Killer Mountain

Height: 8,126m

Location: Pakistan

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $10,000-US $30,000+ US, average US $15,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Avalanche
  • Exposure
  • Fall
  • Altitude Sickness

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 335 successful summits & 68 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 5 successful summits

Climbing Season: September – October

First Accent: 3rd of July 1953, Hermann Buhl

First Winter Accent: 12th of January 1984, Maciej Berbeka & Ryszard

First Accent without oxygen: 3rd of July 1953, Hermann Buhl

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • West Face, Diamer District

Average Duration of expedition: 50 days


ANNAPURNA I

Height: 8,091m

Location: Nepal

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $10,000-US $25,000+ US, average US $15,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Avalanche
  • Fall
  • High Altitude Cerebral Oedema
  • Hypothermia/Exhaustion

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 191 successful summits & 61 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 3 successful summits

Climbing Season: April – May

First Accent: 3rd of June 1950, Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal

First Winter Accent: 3rd of February 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka & Artur Hajzer

First Accent without oxygen: 3rd of June 1950, Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • South face route
  • Northeast face route

Average Duration of expedition: 45 days


GASHERBRUM I

Also known as K5 or Hidden Peak

Height: 8,080m

Location: Border of China & Pakistan

Mountain Range: Karakoram

Cost to climb: Estimate US $15,000-US $30,000+ US, average US $25,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Disappeared
  • Avalanche
  • Fall
  • High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 334 successful summits & 29 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 12 successful summits

Climbing Season: June – July

First Accent: 5th of July 1958, Andrew Kauffman & Pete Schoening

First Winter Accent: 9th of March 2012, Adam Bielecki & Janusz

First Accent without oxygen: June 28 1984, Reinhold Messner & Hans Kammerlander

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • Western Side via north-west face

Average Duration of expedition: 50 days


BROAD PEAK

Also known as Faichan Kangri

Height: 8,047m

Location: Border of China & Pakistan

Mountain Range: Karakoram

Cost to climb: Estimate US $15,000-US $30,000+ US, average US $25,000

Most common causes of death: 

  • Avalanche
  • Fall
  • Pulmonary Oedema
  • Disappeared

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 404 successful summits & 21 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 19 successful summits

Climbing Season: July – August

First Accent: 9th of June 1957, Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger & Hermann Buhl

First Winter Accent: 5th of March 2013, Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski & Artur Malek

First Accent without oxygen: 9th of June 1957, Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger & Hermann Buhl

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • West Ridge

Average Duration of expedition: 50 days


GASHERBRUM II

Also known as K4

Height: 8,035m

Location: Border of China & Pakistan

Mountain Range: Karakoram

Cost to climb: Estimate US $15,000-US $30,000+ US, average US $25,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Fall
  • Avalanche
  • High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema
  • Hypothermia, Exhaustion

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 930 successful summits & 21 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 44 successful summits

Climbing Season: June – July

First Accent: 7th of July 1956, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch & Hans Willenpart

First Winter Accent: 2nd of February 2011, Simone Moro, Denis Urubko & Cory Richards

First Accent without oxygen: June 25th 1984, Reinhold Messner & Hans Kammerlander

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • The South West Ridge Route

Average Duration of expedition: 50 days


SHISHAPANGMA

Also known as Gosainthān

Height: 8,027m

Location: China

Mountain Range: Himalayas

Cost to climb: Estimate US $15,000-US $35,000+ US, average US $30,000

Most common causes of death:

  • Crevasse
  • Avalanche
  • Fall
  • Disappearance
  • High Altitude Sickness
  • High Altitude Cerebral Oedema

Death per summit average: As of 2012 there have been 302 successful summits & 25 deaths. Giving you an average of approx. 1 person dying every 12 successful summits

Climbing Season: April – May

First Accent: 2nd of May 1964, Xu Jing, Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fuzhou, Chen San, Chen Tien-liang, Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji & Yonten

First Winter Accent: 14th of January 2005, Piotr Morawski & Simone Moro

First Accent without oxygen: 7th of May 1980, Michael Dacher, Wolfgang Schaffert, Gunter Sturm, Fritz Zintl, Sigi Hupfauer & Manfred Sturm

Most Common Routes to the top:

  • North-West Face
  • North Ridge

Average Duration of expedition: 45 days

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